By Ann Asher

Good horse care usually starts with the basics: clean water, quality forage, a balanced ration and common sense. Still, there are times when water alone may not be enough to help a horse recover from hard work, hauling or heavy sweating. That is where electrolytes can be useful.

Electrolytes are minerals that help the body manage fluid balance, muscle function and nerve function. In horses, the main electrolytes of concern include sodium, chloride, potassium, calcium and magnesium. When a horse sweats, he does not just lose water. He also loses these important minerals, especially sodium and chloride. That is one reason a horse can appear tired, dull or slow to recover after a long ride, a hard workout or a hot day in the trailer.

For most horses in light work, electrolytes do not need to be complicated. A horse on a good forage-based diet will usually get many of the minerals he needs from hay, pasture and feed. The one thing that is commonly short is salt. Because of that, horses should have access to salt daily, either through a plain white salt block, loose salt or salt added to the feed. Some horses do not consume enough from a block, so loose salt can be a better option for horses that need encouragement.

Electrolyte supplements are different from plain salt because they usually contain a blend of minerals designed to replace what is lost in sweat. They can be helpful for horses in regular training, horses that travel, horses competing in hot weather, horses that sweat heavily or horses that are expected to work hard for a long period of time. They may also be useful

when a horse has had an unusual amount of fluid loss, though illness, diarrhea, colic signs or a horse that is not drinking should always involve a veterinarian.

The best way to use electrolytes is to plan ahead and use them according to the label. They can be given in feed, mixed into water or administered as a paste. For many horse owners, adding them to a small amount of feed is the easiest and most reliable method, because the horse is less likely to reject his water. If electrolytes are added to a water bucket, a second bucket of plain water should always be available. A horse should never be put in a situation where

the only water offered tastes salty or unfamiliar.

That point is important. Electrolytes are meant to support hydration, not replace water. They work best when the horse has free access to fresh, clean water before and after they are given. Giving electrolytes to a horse that cannot or will not drink can make a bad situation worse. If a horse is dehydrated, depressed, showing signs of colic, refusing water or not recovering normally after exercise, that is a veterinary issue, not a supplement issue.

There can also be such a thing as too much. More electrolytes do not automatically

mean better care. Overuse may cause a horse to refuse feed or water, and too much salt without adequate water can irritate the digestive tract and contribute to dehydration concerns. Owners should avoid stacking several electrolyte products at once, especially if the horse is already receiving a fortified feed, mineral supplement or additional salt. It is also worth reading labels carefully. A good electrolyte product should be built around sodium, chloride and other major sweat minerals, not mostly sugar or filler.

Timing matters, too. Electrolytes are most useful when matched to actual need. A horse

standing in the pasture with minimal sweating may only need salt and water. A horse hauled several hours, ridden hard, worked in humid weather or sweating through a saddle pad may benefit from an electrolyte product before, during or after the event, depending on the situation and the product directions. For competition horses, it is wise to test any electrolyte routine at home first. Show day is not the time to find out a horse dislikes a certain powder or will refuse treated water.

Owners should also remember that electrolytes are only one part of heat and hydration management. Shade, ventilation, fitness level, rest breaks, cooling with water, and avoiding the hardest work during the worst heat all matter. An out- of-shape horse asked to do too much can get into trouble even if he has been given electrolytes.

Likewise, a fit horse still needs time to cool down and rehydrate after heavy work.

Used correctly, electrolytes are a practical tool. They can help replace minerals lost in sweat and encourage normal recovery when a horse has been working, hauling or sweating hard. Used carelessly, they can create problems, especially if they are given without enough water or used as a substitute for veterinary care. The safest approach is simple: provide salt every day, keep clean water available at all times, reserve electrolyte supplements for horses that truly need them, and follow the product label. When in doubt, especially with a horse that is not drinking or does not seem right, call the veterinarian. Electrolytes can be helpful, but they work best as part of good horsemanship, not as a shortcut around it.

By NTFR Staff

Every summer, as lawn mowers start making their rounds, the same warning seems to surface among horse owners: “Don’t throw those grass clippings over the fence.” For many people, the explanation has always been that fresh grass clippings will cause an impaction. Like many pieces of horse barn wisdom, the advice is sound, but the reason behind it isn’t exactly what most people think.

Veterinarians and equine nutritionists generally agree that horses should never be intentionally fed lawn clippings. However, the concern is not that chopped grass is likely to plug up the digestive tract. In fact, grass is highly digestible and contains a significant amount of moisture. Impaction colic is more commonly associated with dehydration, poor-quality forage, inadequate water intake, or other factors that slow the movement of feed through the intestines.

The real problem is how horses consume grass clippings. A grazing horse spends hours slowly eating small bites of forage throughout the day. A pile of freshly cut grass, on the other hand, allows a horse to consume a large amount in just a matter of minutes. That sudden intake can upset the delicate balance of microbes in the horse’s hindgut, increasing the risk of digestive upset, gas colic, and, in some horses, even laminitis.

Another concern is choke. Because grass clippings are already chopped into short pieces, horses often gulp them without chewing as thoroughly as they would standing in a pasture. If a large mouthful becomes lodged in the esophagus, the horse may develop choke, which requires prompt veterinary attention.

Grass clippings also begin to change quickly once they are piled together. Heat builds as the clippings start to ferment, and mold can develop surprisingly fast, particularly during warm, humid weather. Feeding spoiled or moldy forage is never recommended, and grass clippings are no exception.

One hazard that is easy to overlook has nothing to do with the grass itself. Many residential lawns have been treated with herbicides, insecticides, fertilizers, or other lawn care products that are not intended for grazing animals. Even if the grass looks healthy, chemical residues can remain on the clippings. A well-meaning neighbor tossing extra clippings over the fence may have no idea they are introducing a potentially dangerous substance into a horse’s diet.

There is one important distinction worth making. Mowing a horse pasture is not the same as dumping a pile of lawn clippings into a pen. When a pasture is clipped, the small pieces are spread across the field, and horses continue grazing normally. They consume only small amounts of the clipped grass as

they eat the standing forage. The concentrated pile, not the fact that the grass has been cut, is what creates the greatest risk.

Just remember that it isn’t an impaction horse owners should be worried about. It’s the combination of rapid consumption, digestive upset, spoilage, and potential chemical contamination that makes grass clippings a risk not worth taking.

The takeaway is simple. If your lawn needs mowing, keep the clippings out of the horse pasture.

Compost them, bag them, or dispose of them another way, but don’t be tempted to treat them as a free snack.

Sometimes the best horse advice has been passed from one generation to the next for good reason. In this case, the old warning still deserves a place around every barn.

By Savannah Magoteaux

Walk down the aisle of any horse trailer after a summer jackpot, ranch rodeo or trail ride, and you’ll probably see the same thing: saddle pads draped over gates, fences and trailer doors, drying in the afternoon sun. Some will be soaked through with sweat. Others will already be stiff with dried salt, caked hair and arena dust.

It’s easy to think of a saddle pad as just another piece of tack, but it has one of the hardest jobs on your horse.

Every ride, it cushions the saddle, helps distribute pressure across your horse’s back, absorbs sweat and allows heat to escape.

A quality saddle pad can last for years, but only if it’s properly maintained.

Allowing sweat, dirt and hair to build up doesn’t just shorten the life of the pad.

Over time, those materials compress the fibers, reduce the pad’s ability to wick moisture and create stiff spots that can rub against your horse’s back. Even the best-made pad can’t do its job if it has become hard as a board.

One of the simplest habits horse owners can develop is cleaning the pad after every ride. Knock off loose dirt, brush away hair and allow the pad to dry completely before putting it back in the tack room or trailer.

Storing a damp pad encourages mildew, odors and bacterial growth while also breaking down many of the materials over time.

While every saddle pad serves the same basic purpose, the material it’s made from determines both its performance and how it should be cared for.

For many western riders, wool felt remains the standard

One of its greatest advantages is that it gradually conforms to the horse’s back without losing its structure. To care for a wool felt pad, remove hair with a curry comb or stiff brush after each ride and let it dry thoroughly. When it does need a deeper cleaning, use cool water and a mild wool-safe detergent if recommended by the manufacturer.

High-pressure washers, harsh detergents and excessive heat can damage the wool fibers and reduce the pad’s performance.

Traditional woven wool blankets are still popular, particularly beneath ranch saddles or as a top blanket over a felt pad. They should be shaken out regularly, brushed clean and washed gently when necessary. Most should be allowed to air dry rather than being placed in a dryer, which can shrink natural fibers.

Neoprene pads have become common because they’re durable, lightweight and easy to clean. Unlike wool, they don’t absorb moisture. Instead, many feature textured or waffle-patterned surfaces that help move sweat away from the horse while allowing airflow beneath the saddle.

Most can simply be rinsed with a hose after riding and washed occasionally with mild soap. Once clean, they should be allowed to dry completely before storage, and prolonged exposure to intense heat or direct sunlight should be avoided since neoprene can become brittle over time.

Foam, gel and memory foam inserts are frequently found in performance pads designed to provide additional shock absorption or relieve pressure points. These materials can be excellent for cushioning, but many retain more heat than wool.

Care varies considerably from one manufacturer to another, making it important to follow the cleaning instructions provided with the pad rather than assuming all synthetic materials can be washed the same way.

Synthetic fleece pads are another common option, particularly for everyday riding.

They are generally easier to clean than natural wool, and many can be machine washed on a gentle cycle before being air dried.

Regular brushing between washings helps keep the fleece from becoming matted and packed with hair.

Regardless of what type of saddle pad you choose, no pad is designed to make up for a saddle that doesn’t fit correctly. Even the thickest pad cannot eliminate pressure points created by an improperly fitting saddle.

Instead, think of the pad as a partner to proper saddle fit, helping protect your horse while allowing the saddle to perform as intended.

Before your next ride, flip your saddle pad over and run your hand across the side that rests against your horse. If it feels rough, stiff or covered in dried sweat and hair, imagine how it feels after an hour in the saddle.

Spending just a few minutes cleaning and drying your pad after each ride will help it last longer, protect your investment and, most importantly, keep your horse more comfortable every time you swing a leg over the saddle.