By Landon Moore
Rabbits offer a lot to the home gardener, and perhaps the most useful of all is their waste. Rabbit manure is likely the single most versatile and valuable fertilizer of any animal manure. It’s a “cold” manure, meaning it can be applied directly to plants in any form without the risk of burning them. In contrast, manure from sheep, horses, cows, and especially poultry must be aged before it’s applied, or it may damage plants. Because rabbit manure doesn’t need to be aged, it retains more of its nutrients and is therefore twice as rich as chicken manure and four times more potent than horse or cow manure. Rabbit manure is safe to apply to soil growing edible crops, has virtually no smell, and contains no harmful seeds. It can be used immediately, or be dried, powdered, made into tea, or turned into worm castings. A single trio of rabbits and their offspring can produce up to two cubic yards of fertilizer per year, along with 100 to 200 pounds of meat.
Rabbit manure is in such high demand as a fertilizer, particularly for roses, that it’s often sold online at a premium price. Some rabbitry owners even charge people to come scoop the manure themselves, paying by the bag. Larger rabbitries might sell by the truckload, but many owners keep it all for their own gardens. You may wonder what makes this little mammal’s excrement so uniquely useful. To understand, we first need to look at the qualities that make it special and then explore its various applications.
To begin with, let’s take a closer look at a rabbit’s biology. Contrary to popular belief, rabbits are not rodents but belong to the order Lagomorpha and family Leporidae, along with hares. All domestic rabbits are domesticated European rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) and are unable to produce fertile offspring with American cottontails. Rabbits are considered “pseudo-ruminants” because they have a single-chambered stomach, but they also have an organ called the cecum, which functions similarly to a rumen and makes up about 40% of their digestive tract. They are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk, typically feeding in the evening.
Rabbits actually produce two kinds of manure. The familiar dry pellets make up most of their waste, while the other type, known as “cecotropes,” is a moist and smelly substance resembling tiny bunches of grapes. Cecotropes are not fully digested, and because rabbits cannot chew their cud, they reingest the cecotropes as they are excreted. This fermented substance allows the rabbit to absorb more nutrients than it would through initial digestion. While cecotropes are occasionally found in cage trays, the feeding behavior that leads to them is usually only witnessed by the rabbit owner.
The dry pellets are the true manure that most people are familiar with. These small, round, dry pellets have almost no smell when kept dry. When crushed, they break down into a powder resembling tiny grass fragments because, in essence, that’s what they are. Some people crush the pellets before applying them to speed up their absorption into the soil, while others appreciate their “slow-release” feature. Additionally, the manure’s water solubility can be exploited in several ways. Soaking a wheelbarrow full of manure creates a potent sludge that can be easily applied to flat surfaces. If the odor is not an issue, the smell will dissipate once the manure is either dissolved by moisture or dried by the sun. Another method is to make manure tea: fill a cloth bag with manure, seal it, and submerge it in a barrel of water for a few weeks. A simpler method involves placing damp manure at the bottom of a barrel, filling it with water, and letting it sit in the sun for a couple of weeks. Stir occasionally, and you’ll have a powerful liquid fertilizer ready for use.
Domestic rabbits should be fed a modern, pelleted feed, which provides all the nutrients they require. This diet eliminates the risk of noxious seeds being present in the manure, making it safe to apply directly to the lawn, especially during winter. Winter and spring rains will break it down, and by late spring, you’ll have a healthy carpet of turf.
Rabbit manure’s nutrient content varies depending on factors like storage, age, and diet, but it generally contains around 2% nitrogen (N), 1.3% phosphorus (P), and 1.2% potassium (K). The Oregon Extension Service gives a range of 3-4.8% nitrogen, 1.5-2.8% phosphorus, and 1-1.3% potassium. Even at the lower end of the scale, rabbit manure has higher nitrogen content than poultry manure and twice the nitrogen content of cattle manure. One reason rabbit manure doesn’t burn plants is due to the biology of birds, which lack bladders and produce more ammonia in their waste. In contrast, rabbits release ammonia in their urine, which is why their manure may have a stronger odor.
Because of its balanced nitrogen-to-phosphorus ratio, rabbit manure promotes a wider variety of species in the same application area. Applying it directly to heavy clay soils will improve them quickly, especially when combined with other organic matter. It can also improve sandy soils by adding texture and helping them retain moisture. Anyone raising rabbits will have a steady supply of manure, as they are efficient producers. A small herd of 17 animals, including their litters, can produce about one ton of manure annually.
Beyond fertilizing, rabbit manure has several other uses. It is considered the best food for earthworms and can be combined with moisture-holding bedding like peat moss, shredded paper, or hay taken from used nestboxes. Many rabbitries (including my own) keep worm beds right under the cages. The resulting castings are rich in nutrients and can be used as-is or incorporated into soil amendments. A couple of feet of manure under a foot of soil in a hotbox can generate enough warmth to start and grow seeds, even in cold climates like Vermont.
In Europe and Asia, the rabbit meat industry is a billion-dollar market. While the Czech Republic leads in per capita consumption (over 8 pounds per person annually), China is the leading producer of rabbit meat. A recent study in China examined the effects of replacing peat moss in seed-starting soil with rabbit manure. The study found no significant difference in germination rates and noted that the manure provided increased nutrients for seedlings. The ideal ratios for seed-starting soil were found to be one-third manure, one-third perlite, and one-third vermiculite, or half manure and half perlite.
Rabbit manure is often overlooked as a nuisance, but as we can see, it’s an incredibly versatile soil conditioner, excellent fertilizer, ideal food for earthworms, and a superior seed-starting medium. Anyone raising rabbits should consider this another benefit, in addition to having a home meat supply, exhibition livestock, or pets.