Most of us have heard kudzu called “the vine that ate the South.” It sounds a little dramatic until you see what it can do.

Kudzu does not politely climb a fence. It swallows it. It does not just grow beside a tree. It can cover the whole thing, blocking sunlight, weighing down limbs and eventually weakening or killing the plant underneath. Given enough time, kudzu can turn a fencerow, creek bank or roadside into a solid green blanket.

For North Texas landowners, kudzu may not be the first invasive plant that comes to mind. We tend to talk more about mesquite, thistles, Johnson grass, privet and other familiar headaches. But kudzu has been found in Texas, and it is enough of a concern that it is listed in invasive plant databases and regulated as a noxious plant. The Texas Department of Agriculture defines noxious and invasive plants as species with serious potential to cause economic or ecological harm to agriculture, horticulture, native plants, ecology and waterways.

Part of what makes kudzu so frustrating is its history. It was once promoted in the United States for erosion control and forage, and farmers were even encouraged to plant it in the 1930s and 1940s. By 1970, USDA had declared kudzu a noxious weed, and in 1997 it was listed as a federal noxious weed.

That is quite a change in reputation.

Kudzu, Pueraria montana var. lobata, is a fast-growing vine in the legume family. It has three-part leaves, often with lobes, and can produce purple, fragrant flowers in late summer followed by seed pods. Texas Invasives notes that the leaflets are generally hairy and several inches across.

The real problem is how fast it grows and how completely it can cover other plants. The Native Plant Society of Texas notes that kudzu may grow as much as 60 feet in a season and can expand at a rate of about a foot per day. It damages plants by smothering them, girdling woody stems and even breaking branches or uprooting trees and shrubs under its weight.

For a rancher or landowner, that can mean more than an ugly patch of vines. Kudzu can reduce usable land, cover fences, make access difficult, shade out native plants and damage wildlife habitat. Along waterways and creek bottoms, it can crowd out the native vegetation that helps stabilize soil and support birds, pollinators and other wildlife.

The best time to deal with kudzu is before it becomes a wall of green.

Small patches should be taken seriously. Do not mow once and assume it is handled. Kudzu stores energy in large root crowns, and those crowns are the key to control. Texas A&M AgriLife notes that to kill kudzu, the crown must be removed because it is the part that produces new sprouts.

Control usually takes persistence. Repeated mowing, grazing or cutting may weaken the plant over time, but it rarely solves the problem by itself. Herbicide treatment is often needed, and Texas Invasives lists repeated applications of triclopyr or glyphosate during the growing season as one control option. Large vines may also be cut and immediately treated on the cut surface. As with any herbicide, landowners should read and follow the label, avoid spraying before rain or during windy conditions and use products approved for the site, especially near water.

This is also one of those situations where asking for help early is smart. Local AgriLife Extension offices, county weed specialists, NRCS staff or invasive plant resources can help with identification and management options. If a landowner is not sure whether a vine is kudzu, getting a positive identification matters before beginning control work.

There are plenty of vines in North Texas, and not all of them are enemies. Native vines can provide food and cover for wildlife. But kudzu is different. It is aggressive, persistent and capable of changing the plant community around it.

The lesson is simple: do not wait until kudzu has covered the fence, climbed the trees and claimed the creek bank. If you see it, identify it. If it is kudzu, make a plan. Then keep after it.

Because the vine that ate the South does not need an invitation to start chewing on Texas, too.

In North Texas, we are used to watching for plenty of things on the road. Deer at dusk, cattle out after a storm, slow-moving tractors, potholes, washouts and the occasional armadillo that made a poor decision.

But this time of year, there is another traveler worth watching for: turtles.

After spring rains, during nesting season or when ponds, creeks and low-water areas begin to change, turtles may be on the move. They cross county roads, highways, driveways and pasture lanes for several reasons. Some are looking for nesting sites. Some are moving between water sources. Others may simply be following the same route they have used for years, long before the road was ever there.

For drivers, a turtle in the road may seem like a small thing. For the turtle, that crossing can be dangerous. Turtles are not built for speed, and even a quiet farm-to-market road can become a problem when traffic picks up.

Many of the turtles North Texans see are aquatic species, such as red-eared sliders, which are common across Texas. These are the turtles often seen lined up on logs or rocks near ponds and creeks, sliding into the water when approached. Other turtles, including box turtles, may be seen farther from water, especially after rain or during warm, active months.

When you see a turtle in the road, the first rule is simple: do not put yourself or anyone else in danger. If traffic is heavy, visibility is poor or there is no safe place to pull over, it is better to slow down and go around if you can. A good intention is not worth causing a wreck.

If it is safe to stop, pull completely off the road, turn on your hazard lights and watch for traffic before getting out. The safest approach is usually to move the turtle to the side of the road it was already heading toward. That part matters. If you turn it around or move it somewhere else entirely, the turtle may try to cross again.

Small turtles can usually be picked up gently by holding both sides of the shell. Keep your fingers away from the head and front legs, and carry the turtle low to the ground in case it kicks or startles you. Set it down a safe distance from the road, facing the same direction it was traveling.

Snapping turtles are a different matter. North Texas is home to common snapping turtles, and Texas also has alligator snapping turtles in parts of the state. These turtles have powerful jaws and long necks, and they should be handled with respect. Never pick up any turtle by the tail. It can injure the animal, and with a snapping turtle, it can put you in a bad position quickly.

If you are dealing with a large snapping turtle and do not feel comfortable helping it, the best choice may be to let it continue on its own while you stay safely away. If you can safely assist without handling it directly, you may be able to guide it across with a shovel, board or floor mat, but only if traffic conditions allow.

What you should not do is take the turtle home. A turtle in the road is not lost in the way we might think. It is likely trying to get somewhere specific. Relocating it to your pond, your yard or a “better” place miles away can do more harm than good. Turtles have home ranges, and moving them far from where they were found may leave them stressed, disoriented or more likely to die.

It is also worth remembering that wild turtles are not pets. They may look harmless, and some may be tempting for children to keep, but wild turtles belong in the wild. In Texas, there are rules regarding the collection and possession of native wildlife, and some turtle species have special protections. The simplest and best choice is to help them across when safe, then leave them where they belong.

If a turtle is injured, the answer is a little different. A cracked shell, obvious bleeding or a turtle that has been hit by a vehicle may need help from someone trained to handle wildlife. In that case, contact a permitted wildlife rehabilitator, local animal control office or Texas Parks and Wildlife for guidance.

For those of us who spend a lot of time driving North Texas backroads, watching for turtles is just another small way to be aware of the land around us. It does not take much effort to slow down, give one a little room or help it across when conditions are safe.

A turtle crossing the road may not be in a hurry, but it is on its way somewhere. Sometimes the best thing we can do is help it get there.

Every horse owner knows one.

It is the horse that stays fat on almost nothing. The pony that looks round even when the feed scoop is small. The gelding that does not need grain, does not miss many meals and still seems to gain weight just by looking across the fence at good grass.

For years, those horses have been called easy keepers. In some ways, the name fits. They are usually economical to feed, hardy and good at making use of what is available. But easy keeper does not always mean easy to manage. In fact, some of those horses may need more careful attention than the harder-keeping horses in the barn.

That is because weight gain, certain body fat patterns and changes in how the horse handles insulin can increase the risk of a serious condition known as Equine Metabolic Syndrome, often shortened to EMS. For many horse owners, EMS is most frightening because of what it can lead to: laminitis.

Laminitis is painful, expensive and potentially life-threatening. It can change a horse’s usefulness and quality of life, and in severe cases, it can become a crisis. The goal for horse owners is to recognize the risk before the horse is standing in the barn too sore to walk.

While EMS is often associated with spring grass, July is still a good time for North Texas horse owners to take a hard look at their easy keepers. By midsummer, many horses have already spent weeks or months on pasture. Hot weather may make owners ride less consistently. A horse that was round in April may be heavier by July. Improved pastures, irrigated areas, hay, treats and grain can all add up, especially for horses that do not need many extra calories.

EMS is not simply a matter of a horse being fat, though obesity is a major warning sign. It is better understood as a metabolic problem involving insulin dysregulation. In plain terms, the horse’s body does not handle insulin normally. Insulin is a hormone that helps regulate blood sugar, but when insulin levels are too high or the body does not respond to insulin as it should, the horse may be at greater risk for laminitis.

That is where the old term “grass founder” can be misleading. Many owners have seen a horse or pony get sore after being turned out on lush grass and assumed the grass itself was the whole problem. Grass can certainly be part of the issue, especially when it is rich in nonstructural carbohydrates, but the bigger picture may be the horse’s metabolic response to that feed source.

Some horses are more prone to EMS than others. Ponies, miniature horses, donkeys and certain hardy breeds may be at higher risk, but any horse can develop metabolic trouble under the wrong conditions. Horses that gain weight easily, receive more calories than they need, exercise inconsistently or carry fat in certain areas deserve a closer look.

Those fat patterns matter.

One of the most noticeable warning signs is a cresty neck. This is the thick, firm fat deposit along the top of the neck that may be especially obvious on ponies, minis and some easy-keeping horses. Fat may also collect around the tailhead, behind the shoulders, along the ribs, in the sheath of geldings and stallions, or around the udder area in mares. These regional fat deposits can be a clue that the horse is not just a little round, but may be metabolically at risk.

Owners should also pay attention to overall body condition. A horse does not have to be thin to be healthy, but a horse carrying too much weight is not harmless. Extra weight places more stress on the feet and joints, and in a metabolically at-risk horse, it may increase the chance of laminitis.

Laminitis is often thought of as a sudden disaster, and sometimes it is. A horse may be fine one day and extremely sore the next. However, it can also be quieter than that. Some horses may have smaller episodes that are easy to miss. They may seem a little tender on gravel, reluctant to turn, short-strided or unwilling to move freely. They may shift their weight, camp out with their front feet, lie down more than usual or just seem “off.”

Those little signs matter, especially in an easy keeper.

By the time a horse is visibly and severely lame, changes may already be happening inside the hoof. In some cases, radiographs may show rotation or sinking of the coffin bone. That is why sore feet in an overweight or cresty-necked horse should not be brushed off as a minor inconvenience. A horse that is tender after a trim, short-strided on hard ground or reluctant to walk across the pasture may need a veterinarian and farrier involved sooner rather than later.

Diagnosis of EMS should be handled by a veterinarian. A vet will look at the horse’s history, body condition, fat deposits, soundness and overall health. Bloodwork may be used to evaluate insulin and other metabolic concerns. Some horses may also need to be evaluated for other conditions, such as pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction, often called PPID or Cushing’s disease, especially in older horses.

The good news is that management can make a major difference. The difficult news is that management usually requires real change.

For many easy keepers, the first step is removing unnecessary calories. Grain is often the easiest place to start. Many horses at risk for EMS do not need grain at all, especially if they are not in hard work. Sweet feed, high-starch concentrates and sugary treats should be avoided unless a veterinarian specifically recommends otherwise. Even small daily extras can matter for a horse that already gains weight easily.

Pasture access is another major consideration. Turning a horse out on good grass for long periods may not be safe for an EMS-prone horse, even if it seems natural. Some horses may need limited turnout, a grazing muzzle or a dry lot. Others may need pasture removed completely during certain times of year or until weight and insulin levels are better controlled.

A grazing muzzle can be a useful tool when fitted correctly and used safely. It allows the horse to move around, socialize and have some turnout while reducing the amount of grass consumed. Horses should be monitored to make sure they can drink, are not getting rubs and are not becoming frustrated or tangled. Breakaway features or safe halter setups are important.

Dry lots can also be effective, but they need management. A dry lot should have safe fencing, clean water, shade and enough room for the horse to move. It should not become a mud hole or manure pile. Hay may need to be fed in a slow feeder or small-hole net to stretch eating time while limiting overconsumption.

Hay is part of the equation, too. Mature grass hay is often used for easy keepers, but guessing at hay quality can be risky. When possible, hay testing can help owners and veterinarians make better decisions. Some horses may need hay that is lower in sugar and starch. Others may need a ration balancer or vitamin-mineral supplement to make sure their nutritional needs are met while calories are reduced.

The goal is not to starve the horse. The goal is controlled, steady weight loss while still meeting the horse’s basic nutritional needs.

Exercise is also important, but only when the horse is sound. A horse with active laminitis or sore feet should not be forced into work. That can make damage worse. However, once a veterinarian clears the horse for exercise, consistent movement can help with weight control and metabolic health. For many horses, this may start with hand-walking or light riding and gradually increase as the horse becomes fitter.

Summer heat adds another challenge. In July, it may be hard to exercise an overweight horse safely during the hottest parts of the day. That does not mean exercise has to disappear entirely, but it may need to happen early in the morning, later in the evening or in shorter sessions. Heat, humidity, hoof soreness and fitness level all need to be considered.

If laminitis is suspected, management changes alone are not enough. A veterinarian should examine the horse, and radiographs may be needed to assess what is happening inside the hoof. A knowledgeable farrier is also critical. Proper trimming or therapeutic shoeing may be part of the plan, depending on the severity of the case.

Pain control should also be directed by a veterinarian. Medications can help manage pain and inflammation, but they must be used carefully. Some drugs can carry risks, especially if used incorrectly or for extended periods. Owners should not treat a laminitic horse with leftover medication and hope for the best.

There may also be cases where medication or supplementation is used as part of a broader EMS plan. Diet, weight loss and exercise remain the foundation, but veterinarians may recommend additional tools for certain horses. That is another reason EMS should not be treated as a do-it-yourself diagnosis. Each horse needs a plan based on its condition, bloodwork, feet, weight and management situation.

The most important message is prevention.

An easy keeper should not be ignored just because he has always been that way. A cresty neck should not be dismissed as normal. Fat pads should not be accepted as harmless. A few tender steps should not be explained away without a closer look.

Horse owners do not have to wait for a laminitis crisis to make changes. They can start by body condition scoring their horses honestly, limiting unnecessary feed, evaluating pasture access, asking their veterinarian about metabolic testing and working with their farrier to keep feet in good shape.

The easy keeper may still be a blessing. He may still be hardy, useful and economical. But he is not always low maintenance.

Sometimes the horse that seems easiest to feed is the one that requires the most discipline from the owner. Managing EMS risk is not about making a horse thin or miserable. It is about protecting his feet, his comfort and his future.

By July, the signs may already be there. The neck may be thicker. The pasture may have been too good. The riding may have slowed down because of the heat. The horse may be rounder than he was in spring.

That does not mean trouble is certain, but it does mean it is time to pay attention.

When easy keeper is not so easy, the best thing a horse owner can do is take it seriously before the horse is hurting.