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Why Fall Is the Best Time to Plant Trees

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By Ann Asher

Every spring, garden centers fill with shoppers loading young trees onto trailers and into pickup trucks. It makes sense. The weather is warming, everything is turning green and planting season feels like it has arrived.

But ask an arborist or Extension horticulturist when they would rather plant a tree, and you’ll probably hear a different answer: fall.

It may seem backward at first, but in North Texas and central Oklahoma, experts widely consider the months between late September and early winter the best time of year to plant most trees. The leaves may be getting ready for winter, but the roots keep growing below the surface long after top growth has slowed. That lets a young tree establish itself before the next hot summer arrives.

That’s a tremendous advantage in a region where summer temperatures routinely climb into the 90s and beyond.

A newly planted tree has one job: grow roots. A tree planted in spring has only a short window before it must also support a flush of new leaves while enduring months of heat, drying winds and occasional drought. That combination can put significant stress on a young tree before its roots have had time to spread into the surrounding soil.

A fall-planted tree has a much easier assignment.

As air temperatures cool, the soil often stays warm for weeks. Those conditions encourage continued root growth without asking the tree to produce new leaves or long shoots. Instead of splitting its energy between growth above and below ground, the tree can put most of its effort into building a healthy root system. By spring, it has settled into its new home and is better prepared for warm weather. Research and recommendations from both Oklahoma State University Extension and Texas A&M AgriLife Extension support fall as an ideal planting season for many landscape trees in this region.

You still can’t dig a hole and walk away.

Choosing the right location is just as important as choosing the right tree. Consider the mature height and spread, not the size of the sapling you’re bringing home. A small oak, pecan or cedar elm may fit comfortably today, but in a few decades it could tower over a house or tangle with utility lines if you plant it without a plan. Likewise, trees that prefer moist soils may struggle in dry, exposed spots, while drought-tolerant native species often need far less maintenance once established.

When it’s time to plant, dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball, but no deeper.

One of the most common mistakes homeowners make is planting too deep. The point where the trunk begins to flare into the roots should sit at or just above the finished soil level. Burying that flare can lead to poor growth and long-term health problems.

Backfill with the native soil that came out of the hole instead of rich potting soil or heavy amendments. It may seem like a kindness, but surrounding the roots with very different soil can discourage them from growing outward into the ground where they’ll ultimately need to survive.

Water thoroughly after planting, then keep watering deeply as needed during dry periods through fall and winter. Even dormant trees need moisture while their roots continue to develop. A layer of mulch two to four inches deep around the base helps conserve soil moisture, regulate temperature and reduce weed competition. Keep the mulch pulled back several inches from the trunk. The familiar “mulch volcano” piled against the bark may look tidy, but it can trap moisture, encourage decay and attract insects.

If you’re unsure what to plant, consider species well adapted to the Southern Plains. Bur oak, chinkapin oak, cedar elm, Shumard oak, bald cypress, Mexican plum, eastern redbud and native pecan are all excellent choices in many parts of North Texas and central Oklahoma, depending on soil conditions and available space. Native trees generally handle local weather extremes better and provide valuable habitat for birds, butterflies and other wildlife.

Planting a tree is one of the few gardening projects that benefits future generations. Long after this year’s tomatoes are forgotten and next season’s flowers have come and gone, that tree will still be growing. It may shade a porch, shelter wildlife, lower summer cooling costs or become the backdrop for family photographs that haven’t been taken yet.

Spring may get most of the attention, but fall gives young trees their best chance to thrive. Give them a strong start now, and they’ll spend the years ahead returning the favor.

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Leave the Mess: Why Wildlife Needs Dead Plants

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By Ann Asher

For years, fall garden advice read like a cleanup list: cut everything down, rake every leaf, haul off the stems and leave the beds tidy for winter. A neater yard may please people, but it can remove exactly what birds and beneficial insects need.

Standing seed heads are winter food. Coneflowers, sunflowers, native grasses and other plants hold seeds that finches, sparrows, quail and other birds can eat long after flowering ends. Hollow or pithy stems can also give native bees and other insects places to spend the winter.

Native bees are one of the strongest arguments for waiting. Many species don’t live in hives. Solitary stem-nesting bees use hollow or pithy stems, while ground-nesting bees depend on undisturbed soil. Cutting every stalk to the ground and hauling it away can remove next year’s pollinators before spring arrives.

Leaf litter matters just as much. Under a layer of leaves are insect eggs, pupae, spiders and other invertebrates that become food for birds. Some butterflies and moths spend part of winter tucked into leaf litter or attached to dead vegetation. Toads and other small animals also use the insulating layer.

Birds use dead vegetation for more than seed. Dense stems break the wind and provide cover from predators. A yard with several layers of vegetation offers far more options than a flat lawn bordered by bare mulch.

Dead wood has value, too. A standing dead tree, or snag, can provide nesting and feeding habitat for woodpeckers and other cavity users. Have a qualified professional remove or reduce any hazardous tree near houses, roads, fences or utility lines, though.

Clean up selectively

None of this means you should abandon your yard until spring. Still remove diseased plant material. Vegetable gardens often benefit from a cleanup that reduces pest and disease carryover. And don’t let thick mats of leaves smother turfgrass. Aim for selective cleanup rather than stripping every bed bare.

One approach is to move leaves off the lawn and into flower beds, around shrubs or into a compost pile. Leave healthy perennial stems standing through winter, especially in less formal areas. Brush piles can provide additional cover if local fire and property rules allow them.

If you worry a less tidy garden will look neglected, design can help. Keep paths and lawn edges crisp while letting the interior of beds stand. Move leaves into defined planting areas instead of leaving them across sidewalks and turf. Habitat doesn’t require making the whole property look abandoned.

You can also clean in stages. Remove diseased vegetables and obvious problem material in fall, leave ornamental and native stems through winter, then do the big cutback after several warm spring days, once insects have had a chance to emerge. Cutting hollow stems too early can destroy insects still developing inside. If you want a tidy look sooner, cut the stems and stack them loosely in an out-of-the-way spot for a few more weeks.

A wildlife-friendly yard in winter won’t look like a July garden. Seed heads turn brown. Leaves collect under shrubs. Stems stay standing. What looks dead to us is often still in use, and a landscape can keep working after the flowers are gone.

This fall, the easiest habitat project may be the one you don’t finish.

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What Happens to Snakes in the Cold?

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By OKFR Staff

The first cold front slows Oklahoma’s snakes down, but it doesn’t make them disappear.

Snakes are ectothermic, meaning their body temperature depends heavily on their surroundings. They can’t generate and regulate body heat the way mammals and birds do. As temperatures fall, digestion, movement and other body processes slow.

In winter, snakes enter a dormant state called brumation. It resembles hibernation, but reptiles may become active during warm spells. They look for protected places where temperatures stay more stable, including deep rock crevices, burrows, old foundations, caves and spaces below the frost line.

Some species gather at communal winter sites. A den with the right depth, moisture and temperature may be used for generations.

Snakes don’t spend the winter in one continuous sleep. A mild January afternoon can bring one to a den entrance to bask before it retreats again.

That explains why a warm fall day after a cold snap can still produce a snake encounter. A south-facing rock pile, barn foundation or sunny trail may warm up enough for a snake to move even after cold nights.

Different species choose different winter shelters. Rattlesnakes may use rocky dens below the frost line. Rat snakes can shelter in hollow trees, old wells or building foundations. Smaller species may disappear into mammal burrows or deep soil cracks. They all need protection from temperatures that would leave them unable to function.

Brumating snakes are sluggish, so disturbing a winter den can be dangerous for the snakes and is unnecessary for people. Leave a cluster of snakes in a natural rock outcrop alone. If snakes are getting into an occupied building, handle it with exclusion work, sealing entry points and removing attractants, rather than by handling the animals.

You can reduce unwanted encounters around buildings by sealing gaps, controlling rodents and keeping debris piles away from the house. Firewood stacked against a wall provides both cover and prey habitat. Out in the open, though, snakes are an important part of the ecosystem, and many species help control rodents.

If you come across a snake, keep your distance. Don’t try to handle or kill a snake you can’t confidently identify. Oklahoma has both venomous and nonvenomous species, and bites are most likely during close contact.

Young-of-year snakes may still be active in fall. A small snake isn’t automatically harmless, and size alone is a poor way to identify one. Give any unknown snake room, and take photographs from a safe distance if you need an identification.

Homeowners sometimes find wintering snakes only after moving firewood, opening a crawl space or cleaning out an old shed. Wear gloves and boots and carry a flashlight when working in protected spots where rodents and snakes may shelter. If you find a venomous snake in or right around a building, call a qualified wildlife professional instead of trying to remove it with improvised tools.

By spring, warming soil and longer days bring snakes back to regular activity. They may use the same den or refuge year after year, so the best fix for a recurring problem near a house is exclusion and habitat changes made when you can safely work the site.

Cold weather changes snake activity, but it doesn’t flip an off switch. Until sustained winter weather arrives, a warm patch of sun can still put a snake right where you didn’t expect one.

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Are Acorns Really a Predictor of the Winter to Come?

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By Ann Asher

A yard full of acorns always seems to bring the same prediction: “We’re going to have a hard winter.” Oaks, unfortunately, don’t have access to a seasonal forecast.

Heavy acorn years are called mast years. Oaks can produce enormous crops in some years and very few in others. Species, tree health, pollination, weather during flowering and fruit development, and broader biological cycles scientists are still studying all influence the pattern.

The trouble with the winter-weather theory is timing. Acorns start developing months before winter arrives. A tree can’t know a February ice storm is coming and deliberately make extra acorns in response.

Weather does influence the crop, just not as a forecast. A late freeze can damage oak flowers and reduce production. Drought can stress trees. Good growing conditions can support development. Different oak groups also mature acorns on different schedules, so the crop under one tree may not match the crop under another.

Members of the white oak group generally mature acorns in one growing season, while many red oak species take two seasons from pollination to mature acorn. That means the weather that shaped this year’s crop may have hit at different stages depending on the oak.

One reason the myth feels convincing is that people remember the hits. A huge acorn crop followed by a memorable ice storm becomes a story. A huge crop followed by an ordinary winter is quickly forgotten. That is classic confirmation bias, and weather folklore is full of it.

What mast years do

Mast years do have real effects. Deer, squirrels, turkeys and other wildlife take advantage of abundant nuts. When acorns are plentiful, deer may spend less time at feeders or food plots because high-energy food is already scattered under the trees. Rodent populations can also respond to abundant mast.

Scientists study mast years for a better reason than forecasting weather. Large, synchronized seed crops can overwhelm seed predators, so more acorns survive and germinate. Mast also ripples through wildlife populations by providing a temporary burst of high-energy food.

For livestock producers, a bumper crop can be less charming. Cattle eating large amounts of acorns can develop oak toxicity, particularly when forage is scarce and animals eat acorns heavily.

In North Texas, the most useful thing a landowner can do with a heavy acorn crop is watch who is eating it. Deer may shift toward oak bottoms. Hogs can concentrate where mast is abundant. Cattle may start eating acorns if grass is short. Those are immediate management clues, unlike a guess about January temperatures.

Weather forecasting has improved because meteorologists measure the atmosphere and oceans, not because anyone found a better acorn. So enjoy the old saying, but don’t reorganize your winter feed budget around it. A ground covered in acorns tells you quite a bit about the oaks’ recent growing season and much less about weather that is still months away. The oak crop can stay where it belongs: in ecology, wildlife food and an enjoyable piece of fall folklore.

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