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A Place to Come Back To: Jahn’s Pumpkin Hill

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By Savannah Magoteaux, Editor

When Mary Jahn came home with the idea of opening a pumpkin patch on the family’s place near Cyril, even her husband, Jerry, wondered who would drive out into wheat pasture country to buy a pumpkin. She had two small boys, a cattle and wheat operation around her and no particular advantage when it came to growing pumpkins. She also had a picture of a place where families could spend a day together and feel welcome.

Jahn’s Pumpkin Hill opened in 2002 with some pumpkins, a rented concession wagon and a swing. Today visitors take a farm tour, feed animals, play for hours and eat pumpkin treats baked on site. The boys Mary wanted to stay home with are grown. Now she meets parents who came to the patch as children and bring children of their own.

The idea started with a practical question: How could Mary bring in income without putting Cale and Spencer in daycare? She and Jerry ran cattle on wheat pasture along with a cow-calf herd, and Jerry also worked off the farm.

After Mary and a friend took their children to a pumpkin patch, she could picture something similar at home. Jerry needed more convincing. Pumpkins were an odd proposition in cattle and wheat country, and Mary wondered what the neighbors would think. She cared more about staying home with her boys.

“I was not going to put my boys in daycare,” she said. “I just thought I’ll do this and we’ll make it.”

About 600 people came that first season, though the venture made little money at first. Mary remembers the pumpkins, a swing and a rented Coke concession wagon. “We didn’t have much,” she said. Those first 600 visitors proved that families would drive out to a pasture, pick a pumpkin and stay awhile. The Jahns set about giving them more to do.

Mary also carried a lesson from the patch that gave her the idea. She wanted her own visitors to know the Jahns were glad they came, and she built that welcome into the operation along with the pumpkins and play equipment.

Jerry is often the first person families meet when they arrive. Mary spends much of the day on trailer tours. Between trips she visits with guests, pitches in where she’s needed and passes out bites of whatever just came out of the kitchen.

The family added attractions one season at a time, usually after spotting a need. First came a concession stand, then a bigger one, then more places to play.

“We just started adding things every year,” Mary said. “We just grew it like that, very slowly and a little bit at a time.”

Over more than two decades, those small additions have changed what a visit looks like. A family can come for a pumpkin and spend the afternoon in the hay maze, on the slides, the jumping pillow and the junior zip line, with the animals and on a tour of the farm. Children have room to run, and adults can sit and watch. The patch sits out in the pasture, away from road traffic and the pace of town.

Fitting the land

Some of Mary’s early plans failed. She believed a pumpkin patch ought to grow its own pumpkins, so the Jahns planted them.

Grasshoppers went after the young plants, and the pumpkins that survived weren’t the firm, bright ones Mary wanted families to take home. “Pumpkins love sand and irrigation, and we have neither,” she said. She tells the story with the grasshoppers cheering: “Oh hallelujah! Thank you for this plant you gave us.”

Meanwhile, the pumpkins the family trucked in and set out on wheat pasture drew plenty of attention from visitors. Mary decided to stop fighting the ground and put her effort into the visit.

The Jahns now buy their pumpkins from Pumpkin Pyle, farmers from Floydada, Texas, and they don’t pretend otherwise. Their own agriculture surrounds the patch: cattle on wheat pasture, no-till farming and stocker heifers. The family also runs a trucking business that hauls gypsum rock.

Buying pumpkins let Pumpkin Hill fit the land the Jahns farm, instead of asking it for a crop that kept failing. Visitors still choose their own pumpkin, and they see a working Oklahoma farm while they’re at it.

Cale and Spencer worked the patch from the start, though their enthusiasm varied. As boys they helped with horse rides, set out pumpkins, picked up trash and did whatever else needed doing. The rest of the farm ran the same way: If their parents were working wheat ground or processing cattle, the boys went along.

When Cale got older, Mary sometimes had him lead the farm tour because he had an excellent speaking voice. He did it reluctantly. Spencer, a man of fewer words, was never a likely tour guide, and he found other ways to help.

Both sons still help, and much of what children play on carries their work. Jerry and the boys built the metal framing for the slides and other structures. This year the family built a new barn where parents and grandparents can sit out of the heat and keep an eye on the kids. Spencer’s hauling work keeps him on the road, but he helped with the barn, too. Cale has moved back home with his wife and their two young sons. The boys who once picked up trash at the patch are now building it for their own children.

What families take home

The barn is one of several additions this season. There are more saucer swings and a circular climbing net Mary calls a 16-foot spider web. Cale’s wife, Abbye, arranged a new tower of stacked pumpkins that makes a good photo spot. They join longtime favorites like the Hiney Slide, jumping pillow, junior zip line and hay maze.

Visitors can meet sheep, goats, pigs and cattle, and Mary gets a kick out of letting children feed a pig a cookie. Many young guests have never touched a pig, sheep or goat, and she likes giving them the chance.

Then there is the food. A wonderful cook handles the baking at Pumpkin Hill, and Mary talks about the treats like someone who has watched people come back for them.

The pumpkin Twinkie is a small piece of pumpkin bread split and filled with a generous layer of cream cheese icing. There are pumpkin pies, small loaves of pumpkin bread and a rotating lineup of brownies and cookies.

On a hot Oklahoma fall afternoon, the homemade lemonade may beat any dessert. Mary says visitors look forward to it, and she keeps iced tea on hand, too. When the calendar says fall and the thermometer says summer, she knows which one people will reach for.

After more than two decades, opening day still makes Mary nervous. She has never reached the point of assuming visitors will show up. “I still think, ‘Oh no! No one is going to come,’” she said.

New attractions take planning, upkeep and labor, and the family hires people to staff the concession area. Mary looks for workers who are patient and kind with guests. If families make the trip, she wants someone to talk with them, help them enjoy the day and make them feel at home.

On the trailer

The farm tour shows that approach best. Jerry refurbished an old cotton trailer with seats and steps, and a John Deere tractor pulls it around the place.

Once everyone is aboard, Mary has them for about 15 minutes, and she uses the time. She talks about the cattle they pass, what the heifers will do as they mature and how food gets from a farm to the table. She points out other products agriculture provides.

She covers local history, too, from her grandparents’ arrival in Cyril in 1940 to her own parents, a farmer and a schoolteacher. A school group may come for pumpkins and playtime, but the kids leave knowing more about the land around the patch.

“That’s one of my favorite parts,” Mary said of the tours.

Her topics change with the farm’s season and with what she can point out along the route. In past years she has talked about soil conservation, erosion and the importance of grass. She doesn’t assume children know what cattle eat, how crops are raised or why land needs care.

Many meet farm animals for the first time that day. Mary lets them feed an animal, then shows them the pasture and explains the work behind it. Agriculture gets a little more familiar, and the outing never turns into a classroom lesson.

Mary knows how easily local history slips away when nobody passes it on to the next group of children. The trailer gives her time to talk about the people who lived and worked around Cyril before them. It also gives visitors a real person to ask. Her enthusiasm doesn’t stop when the ride does. She’ll answer a question at the concession stand or stop to hear why a family came that day.

Some visits mark occasions Mary never could have imagined when she rented that concession wagon. She remembers a couple who brought their children on the day their adoption became official. When Mary learned what the day meant, she gave the children T-shirts.

Years later the mother told her the family still had one of those shirts, though the child had long outgrown it. Other families have come while facing something hard and needed an afternoon together. Mary can’t know what each guest carries through the gate. She can give them room to play, visit and spend time with the people they came with.

Mary remembers a woman who told her she first came to Pumpkin Hill as a kindergartner and had come back with the next generation of her family. Visits like that show Mary how long the Jahns have opened their pasture each fall. Her sons are grown, and she has grandsons to keep track of. Some of the children who once climbed and played at the patch now watch their own kids do the same. Mary sees the years in those faces, and she is still grateful every season when people come through the gate.

The Jahns keep farming, building and getting ready for the next crowd. Jerry greets arrivals, Mary climbs aboard the trailer, and the family tends the place that started with a few pumpkins and a swing. The details change each year, from a new barn to another spot for a child to climb.

Mary’s reasons haven’t changed. She wanted to be home with her boys and to give other families a place to be together. Those boys now help run it, and the families keep coming back.

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AG Elsewhere: Montana

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By Lindsey Monk

Fall works are starting in Montana and Wyoming! Ranchers are gathering cattle for preconditioning ahead of weaning and shipping, which means early mornings and whole days spent horseback.

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When the Red Turned Raging: Floods That Shaped Southern Oklahoma

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Adapted from the article by Judy Wade for NTFR

Most days, the Red River doesn’t look like much.

It drifts along the Oklahoma–Texas line, wide and sandy, broken by bars and bends that make it feel more like a boundary than a threat. But that calm can be misleading. When the rains come hard enough, the Red River has a history of reminding people exactly what it’s capable of.

One of those reminders came in 1908.

As recorded by J. M. Dyer in History of Jefferson County, rains fell in what he described as “deluge proportions.” Cow Creek and Beaver Creek near Waurika swelled beyond their banks, pushing water downstream into the Red River. From there, the situation escalated quickly.

Dyer wrote that the river ran out of its banks “throughout its entire reach” as it moved toward the Mississippi River basin. With nowhere for the excess water to go, it backed up into tributaries like Cow and Beaver creeks, pushing floodwaters back toward the communities that fed them.

Waurika took a direct hit.

Water ran two to three feet deep down Main Street. The American Hotel, located just west of where the courthouse now stands, reportedly showed a high-water mark of three feet. Farmland disappeared under water. Homes were overtaken. What had been dry ground turned into a moving sheet of muddy current.

Transportation didn’t stand a chance. The Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railroad tracks were washed out from Sugden to north of Ryan, and water backed up as far as the depot in Ryan. Communities like Sugden were effectively cut off for days.

And it didn’t end there. Flooding continued to trouble the region for years, though not always at the same scale.

Holding Back a River

By the mid-20th century, efforts to control the Red River began to take shape.

The construction of Denison Dam, completed in 1943, created Lake Texoma. The project provided hydroelectric power, water storage, and recreation, while also helping reduce flooding downstream.

However, it’s worth clarifying one point: Denison Dam primarily controls flooding below the dam. It has limited impact on upstream tributaries like Beaver Creek, which meant areas around Waurika still faced significant flood risk.

That led to another major project.

In 1963, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers began work on a dam northwest of Waurika. The result was Waurika Lake, completed in 1980. The roughly 10,000-acre reservoir was designed to provide municipal water, irrigation support, recreation, and—most importantly—flood control for the surrounding area.

The Flood of 1984

Even with those improvements, the Red River proved it could still cause trouble.

In the fall of 1984, heavy rains across western Oklahoma and Texas sent large volumes of water racing toward the river. This time, Waurika itself fared better. The dam and improved drainage systems did what they were built to do, protecting much of the town from the kind of flooding seen in 1908.

But not everything was spared.

On the Texas side of the river, floodwaters spread outward for nearly half a mile in places. Pastures and cropland were inundated. Livestock losses were reported. Fences disappeared. Debris—from propane tanks to round bales of hay and entire trees—floated downstream beneath the Highway 79 bridge.

The bridge held. The road did not.

A section of Highway 79 just south of the Red River bridge was washed away, forcing travelers to detour through either Burkburnett or Terral. The reroute added roughly 55 to 65 miles for anyone trying to reach Wichita Falls. Repairs took months.

A River That Doesn’t Forget

Today, the Red River has returned to its usual pace, winding its way southeast toward Lake Texoma and beyond. On the surface, it looks harmless again.

But history says otherwise.

Flood control projects have made a difference, especially for towns like Waurika. Still, the river’s behavior depends on rainfall, terrain, and timing—factors that can line up in a hurry. When they do, the Red River can rise fast and spread wide, just as it did more than a century ago.

It’s easy to look at it now and see a lazy river.

It’s harder—but more accurate—to remember that it isn’t.

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The Deadliest Prairie in Texas

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By Shannon Gillette

The Salt Creek Prairie with its rolling natural grasses and rampant wildflowers was a deceptive backdrop to the most dangerous prairie in Texas.  Located in the northern section of Young County, the prairie absorbed an abundant amount of blood, shed from the battles between the encroaching white man and the Indians desperately trying to hold on to their home lands.

The Salt Creek Prairie was the location of several encounters between the Kiowa, Comanche and the area ranchers.  The Indian Raid of Elm Creek on Oct. 13, 1867, resulted in the death of seven ranchers, five former Confederate Soldiers, the kidnapping of six women and children and the theft of 10,000 head of cattle.  On May 18, 1871, the prairie witnessed another massacre when the Warren Wagon Train was hit by Kiowa under the command of Satanta, Satank and Big Tree.  Seven members of the wagon train were murdered and forty-one mules stolen.  But perhaps one of the bloodiest encounters was the Salt Creek fight on May 16, 1869.

Eleven cowboys under the watchful eye of their foreman, Captain Ira Graves were in the process of rounding up about five hundred head of their cattle about five miles southeast of present day Olney, Texas.  The ranch hands were William Crow, John and George Lemley, C. L. Carter, Jason McClain, W. C. Kutch, J. W. Gray, Henry Harrison, Rube Secris, Joe Woody and a former slave known as Dick.   They had noticed signs of recent Indian activity and were vigilant as they gathered the herd together.  Each was armed with cap and ball six shooters.  They had pointed the cattle towards the ranch and had made about four miles headway when they noticed a few more head grazing in the distance.  Graves sent Carter and Kutch to gather them up.  They had advanced about two miles when they spotted a large band of Indians approaching fast.  Carter and Kutch could have taken cover in the sparse timber, but realized they would be leaving their companions in serious danger.  The two groups met in the middle and tried to take cover in a small ravine that drained into the Salt Creek.  The shallow-make shift fox hole offered very little protection.

The Indians attacked again and again.  Arrows rained down on the cowboys in a continuous stream of painful blows.  They attacked and retreated and attacked and retreated, but each time were met with volleys of gunfire from the small group of ranch hands. Each time the Indians retreated, they conferenced with their leader, who had stationed himself on a small hill away from the battle.  After six hours of the constant onslaught, Graves developed a plan.  When the Indians retreated, he ordered his men to stand and wave as wildly as they possibly could. The band of Indians, numbering over fifty strong, retreated for a final time, leaving the small band of cowboys alone.

As the dust settled the ranch hands evaluated their losses.  In Kutch’s personal account given several years later, he described the aftermath: “Wm. Crow had been dead for several hours, and C. L. Carter had a severe arrow wound in his body, and had been also painfully injured with a rifle ball.  John Lemley was mortally wounded in the abdomen with an arrow; J. W. Gray had been twice struck with rifle balls, once in the body and one in the leg; W. C. Kutch had two arrow heads in his knee and one in his shoulder; Jason McClain had been twice wounded with arrows; Rube Secris had his mouth badly torn, and his knee shattered; Geo Lemley had his face badly torn, and an arrow wound in his arm; and Ira Graves and Dick were also wounded.”  Harrison was sent to Harmison Ranch for help. 

The exhausted and wounded cowboys braved a very long and frightful night.  With great relief, the morning hours brought the welcome sight of an incoming wagon.  The rescuers patched the wounded as well as they could and sent word that doctors were needed desperately.  The doctors did not arrive until a full twenty-four hours later. Carter passed away the next day from the injuries received during the battle.  Two years later, McClain died while on another cattle drive.  The cause of his death was blamed on the substantial injuries incurred on that fateful day in 1869.

While today the prairie grasses still wave and the wildflowers bloom in gorgeous arrays of colors nestled between cactus and mesquite, the blood shed is a distant memory.  On crisp spring mornings it is easy to picture the deadly predicament that the cowboys faced. 

This article originally appeared in the January 2016 issue of NTFR.

 

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