By Landon Moore

If you keep or are interested in keeping poultry, you will have the desire to raise young birds at some point. If you order chicks, or decide to incubate and hatch eggs, it will be necessary to learn how to brood the resulting hatchlings. While this will vary in specifics between species, the basic rules remain the same. In this article, the word “chicks” will be used, but the general information following also applies to goslings, ducklings, keets, poults, etc.

Brooding poultry is caring for the chicks during the period when they are growing their first feathers. Chicks hatch with a thin coat of down that leaves them susceptible to chilling. The mother keeps them warm by continuing to sit on the young for the first weeks after hatching. If you plan to hatch your own flock’s eggs you may wonder why you should bother to do it artificially, especially if you have broody birds. The answer is that modern incubators are much more likely to result in live chicks, can incubate far more eggs and keep the extremely vulnerable hatchlings safe as they emerge, especially from ants. Of course if you are purchasing chicks, brooding is your only option.

Before your eggs hatch or the chicks arrive, you will want to have the brooder set up, and ready to go. The first issue to decide is location. You will want a covered and secured place to set up the brooder. Be sure it has plenty of air flow; as anyone who has spent any time with birds can attest, fowl of any age produce an unpleasant smell without adequate ventilation. A barn or other outbuilding could work, but be sure it is well secured. A cat, raccoon or other predator could easily kill your chicks if they get the opportunity. A garage is a great option, offering protection and close access to water and electricity. If it lacks windows you will need to open the garage door a few times per day for ventilation. Inside the house is another option (such as in a disused bathroom) especially for very small poultry. This may seem ideal, offering complete protection, easy temperature regulation, water and electrify, but there are drawbacks. Aside from smell, chicks are unbelievably messy and will require extensive and daily cleaning if the room is to remain in even slightly good condition.

The next choice is what the brooder box will be. You can purchase large metal brooders built for hundreds of chicks or expensive tiered systems on rollers. However the best option is usually a plain, heavy-duty plastic storage box. Cheap, easy to move, simple to clean and sanitize, these are the most versatile and efficient option.

The chicks will require (in addition to shelter) heat, bedding, feed and water. The heat will come in the form of a small heat lamp or even a very strong and hot light bulb suspended above one end of the brooder box. Be sure it is securely prevented from falling into bedding or you could end up with a fire. You can make a metal screen to place over the box which protects them from predators in addition to falling lamps. Place a thermometer at the surface of the bedding before adding the chicks and adjust the heat lamp until the thermometer measures 95 degrees. You will reduce this by 5 degrees each week until their feathers have grown out. Even if the weather reaches or exceeds this temperature a lamp will be needed at night.

You may be intimidated by charts showing the exact temperature requirements of various poultry species and wonder how you can possibly keep the heat exactly right during daily temperature shifts. You do not need to be overly worried about this. Why? Because the chicks will tell you if they are comfortable through their behavior. After placing them in the brooder simply watch them for a few minutes. Do they crowd underneath the heat, piling on each other to conserve heat? Lower the bulb a bit. Are they straining against the opposite wall and cheeping in stress? Move it further away. Are they fairly evenly spread out, some exploring their new environment and some sleeping under the heat? Perfect. This is why the heat should be placed over one end of the brooder. If it is over the entire box you will have no way of knowing if your chicks are over-warmed.

The next issue is bedding. When the chicks are first placed in the brooder the bedding should be a layer of paper towels or (non-slick) newspaper. This even surface provides good traction for the birds preventing splayed legs and also prevents them from getting stuck somewhere and dying or else ingesting bedding before they learn what feed is and dying. It is always good to keep in mind that chicks of all kinds are morbid little things that will jump at the first opportunity for death in their initial couple weeks of life. It is up to you to deny them the opportunity until their self-preservation instinct kicks in. Chicks mature shockingly fast and in just a couple of days the bedding may be exchanged for pine shavings. You may still want a layer of paper at the bottom to make cleaning easier. You do not want to disturb the chicks without necessity, so you can add a fresh layer of shavings a couple of times as needed before you completely clean the box.

Commercial chick feed is available that is meant to be suitable for all species. For game birds, guineas and turkeys it’s often better to just use an adult gamebird crumble feed as their protein requirements are extremely high. For waterfowl, be sure the feed has enough niacin if it isn’t specifically formulated for them. If it does not have enough, you can sprinkle some brewer’s yeast over the top. Medicated feed is usually formulated for chicks specifically and may not be safe for other species (especially for waterfowl), so be sure to check before feeding. Chicks aren’t especially bright and may not be able to figure out how to operate the feeder at first. You can help them by placing a small pile of their feed on a paper plate (or paper towel for quail) where they can see it more easily.

For waterers, their basically two main types; open waterers and bottles. The bottles can be complicated with multiple pieces and nipples to drink from or simply a two piece plastic quart jar and base that screw together. The open waterers will usually be a miniature trough with a hinged or sliding lid that allows the chicks to stick their heads in without falling into the waterer and drowning. Generally the bottle type waterers will stay cleaner and hold more, but for waterfowl open waterers are preferred so they may submerge their bills for cleaning. Quail should be given bottles with special quail bases which are very small to prevent drowning. It can be extremely beneficial to dissolve a couple tablespoons of sugar (or commercially-made chick electrolytes) into the water for the first few days, especially if the chicks came by mail. Provide chicks with warm water the first few days (use your inner wrist to determine a suitable temperature, as you would milk for a bottle) to prevent chilling them. Be sure to carefully dunk each chick’s beak into the water when they are placed in the brooder so they learn what it is.

Chicks are most fragile for the first three days and should be handled as little as possible. When shipped, they will arrive stressed and possible chilled and care during this period is the most crucial. For the first three days after hatching, chicks are still absorbing their egg yolk and will not require outside nutrition and therefore may eat sparingly. It is best practice to sanitize the feeders and waterers regularly, but be aware that all birds will leave manure in their water. Don’t let the water remain filthy, but don’t expect it to remain sterile, either. Likewise, a stinking bog will not yield thriving poultry, but it is unnecessary to fanatically clean the brooder constantly. When the chicks are fully feathered will vary by species (three weeks for quail, six weeks for chickens), but once this happens it will be time for your young feathered friends to graduate to their new pens.

By Tony Dean

Farmers and ranchers are in a very close partnership with Mother Nature. If we really pay attention, she presents us some interesting scenarios.

For example, though they are totally different types of plants, water lilies and prickly pear have a lot in common. They both have strikingly beautiful flowers, both plants are edible, both of them are invaders into their respective habitats, and too much of either one can be an obstacle that we have to deal with.

Many north Texas ranches rely on excavated ponds for livestock water. Any time a pond contains a significant amount of shallow water so that sunlight reaches the bottom, some type of pond weed will develop.  The plant family that includes water lilies and lotuses is a common invader in our livestock water.

Water lilies and lotuses are in the same plant family but they are two separate genera. There are easy ways to tell them apart:

• A primary difference is that water lily leaves commonly float on the surface, but lotus leaves can grow above the water line.
• Water lily leaves and flowers are thick and waxy, while lotus leaves and flowers are thin and papery.
• Water lily leaves have a distinct notch in the leaf, while lotus leaves are more rounded.
• Water lily flower petals are pointed, and lotus petals are more rounded.

The photos attached to this writing are from Clay County, and this plant is common across north Texas. American lotus is adapted to a wide area, from Honduras north through Mexico and across the eastern US and into Canada.

American lotus is a perennial, and it is cold tolerant and heat tolerant. It can grow in any pond or slow moving stream that contains shallow water areas.  It prefers water with a depth of about 12 inches. Germination can occur from the large lotus seeds. Tubers, or roots, are established in the mud, and long slender stems extend upward. Leaves and flowers are both emergent in that they grow above the water line.

Lotus flowers are fragrant, and yellowish white with rich gold centers.  They open in the morning and close by late afternoon, then open again the next day.

Lotus is an edible plant and has a history as a food source. The large tuberous roots, the size of a human arm, were baked like sweet potatoes. The leaves were eaten like spinach, and the large seeds were ground into flour. Stems taste somewhat like beets and were usually peeled before being eaten.

There is a large world-wide industry of cultivating lilies and lotuses in water gardens. According to        Dr. Jerry Parsons, Professor and Extension Horticulturist with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, cultivation of these plants dates back as early as ancient Egypt. Today, anyone with determination and a little money can have a water garden.

In 2011, the 82^nd Texas Legislature designated the water lily “Texas Dawn” as the official Texas State Water Lily. Texas Dawn is a hybrid developed by Texas resident Kenneth Landon, a world-renowned expert in the field of water lilies and the director of the International Water Lily collection in San Angelo.

Ducks and other wildlife utilize the large acorn like seeds of American lotus, and submerged portions of all aquatic plants provide some form of wetland habitat. Many of us have tried to pull a bass out of a group of water lilies or lotuses, and I’m sure others have had better luck than I did. Although there can certainly be benefits to lilies, lotuses, and other aquatic plants, they can also infest ponds to the extent that the pond is not functioning correctly.

So, while the rest of the world works hard to grow these plants, ranchers sometimes need to control populations in their stock ponds. Once it gets a foot hold, American lotus can spread aggressively in wetland areas.

The primary issue that encourages American lotus, and most other water weeds, is shallow water.  Look closely at a good livestock pond and you will find that the deeper water is basically free of infestation.  Any pond will have a certain amount of shallow water that encourages water weed growth, depending upon the terrain at the pond site and how the pond was constructed. Some ranchers who enjoy and utilize wetland habitat may prefer to have ponds with significant shallow water area.

Almost all livestock ponds have a certain life expectancy.  Siltation, or movement of soil into the pond bottom through rainfall runoff, is a natural occurrence.  How fast siltation occurs into each pond, and how deep the pond was to start with, determines the length of time that the pond will contain adequate depth for dependable water for livestock.

Ponds that develop infestations of water weeds over a large percent of the surface may not have adequate depth to remain a viable water source for livestock during drought periods, especially in  western north Texas where evaporation rates are higher.

Mud, or silt, from the pond bottom, can be removed to deepen the water, but this is a very expensive process.  It is often more economical to construct a new pond rather than try to remove the silt from an old one.  Most of us do not have the funds to continually construct deep water livestock ponds, so we must try to keep existing structures functioning and providing good drinking water for livestock, for as long as we can. Control of pond weeds like American lotus may be necessary, and it can be accomplished.

There is currently no feasible biological control. American lotus can be cut and removed, but this process us usually temporary because lotus can reestablish from seeds and roots.

American lotus can be safely controlled by chemicals. This must be done carefully.  If a pond containing a large amount of any pond weeds is treated to remove all of the vegetation, a fish die-off could occur.  When the dying weeds decompose, they use up the oxygen in the water and fish can suffocate. If possible, treat only a portion of the area, wait about two weeks, and treat another portion.

Most people don’t notice it all at once.

It starts with a coat that doesn’t shed like it used to. Maybe it hangs on a little longer in the spring, or comes off uneven. Then the topline doesn’t look quite as strong. A horse that always held weight well starts to look a little different, maybe carrying more in the belly and less over the back. Sometimes it’s the feet that raise the first real concern.

None of those things, on their own, seem like a big deal. But when they start to stack up, they point in a direction that’s worth paying attention to.

Cushing’s disease, more accurately called Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction, or PPID, is one of the most common conditions affecting older horses. It’s not something that shows up overnight, and it’s not something that can be cured, but it is something that can be managed if it’s recognized early and handled correctly.

At the center of it all is the pituitary gland, a small but important part of the horse’s endocrine system located at the base of the brain. Under normal conditions, it helps regulate hormones that affect everything from metabolism to immune function. In horses with PPID, a portion of that gland, called the pars intermedia, begins to lose its normal control. The result is an overproduction of hormones, including cortisol, which can have a wide-ranging impact on the body over time.

That increase in cortisol is part of what makes the disease so challenging. It doesn’t just change how a horse looks on the outside. It affects how the body functions. The immune system becomes less effective, healing slows down, and the horse becomes more vulnerable to infections and other complications.

Most cases are diagnosed in horses over the age of 15, but it’s not limited to that age group. It has been identified in younger horses as well, which is why it’s important not to write off physical changes as “just getting older” without taking a closer look.

The signs themselves can be easy to miss in the early stages. The long, shaggy, non-shedding hair coat that people commonly associate with Cushing’s is actually a later development. Before that, the changes are more subtle. A horse may shed later than normal or unevenly. Muscle tone may start to fade, especially along the topline. Some develop a pot-bellied appearance. Others begin drinking more water or seem a little quieter than usual.

Then there are the cases where the first real red flag is laminitis. A horse that suddenly struggles with its feet, or deals with repeated bouts of soreness without a clear cause, often ends up being tested for PPID. In many situations, that’s what finally brings the condition into focus.

Diagnosis itself is fairly straightforward, but it does require some attention to detail. Blood tests are used to measure hormone levels, particularly ACTH, along with glucose and insulin in some cases. Timing matters, as hormone levels naturally shift with the seasons, especially in the fall. Testing at the wrong time without accounting for those changes can lead to inaccurate results, which is why veterinarians may recommend specific testing windows or additional procedures like a TRH stimulation test to confirm what’s going on.

Once a diagnosis is made, the conversation turns to management. There isn’t a cure for PPID, but there is a reliable way to control it. The most commonly prescribed medication is Prascend, which contains pergolide. It works by helping restore balance in the hormone system that the pituitary gland has disrupted. Given daily in tablet form, it has become the standard treatment for horses with PPID.

For many horses, the response is noticeable. Coats begin to normalize, weight stabilizes, and overall condition improves. That said, PPID is a progressive disease, which means management doesn’t stay static. Dosages may need to be adjusted over time, and follow-up testing becomes part of the routine. Some horses experience a decrease in appetite when starting the medication, which may require small adjustments, but overall it remains the most effective option available.

Beyond medication, the day-to-day care of a horse with PPID becomes just as important. Good nutrition is at the top of that list, particularly when it comes to limiting sugars and starches. Horses with PPID are often more susceptible to metabolic issues, and managing diet plays a major role in reducing the risk of laminitis. Regular dental care, consistent deworming, and attentive hoof care all become even more important in maintaining overall health.

There are also the practical realities. Horses that don’t shed properly often need to be body clipped, sometimes more than once a year, just to stay comfortable in warmer weather. Some may require more frequent bathing or cooling if they sweat excessively. Others need closer monitoring for small issues that could turn into larger problems if left unchecked.

Of all the complications associated with PPID, laminitis remains the most serious. It’s also the one that most often determines long-term outcome. Chronic or repeated laminitis can lead to ongoing pain and, in severe cases, the decision to euthanize. That’s why early recognition and consistent management matter. The sooner the disease is identified, the better the chances of preventing that kind of progression.

A diagnosis of PPID isn’t the end of the road for a horse. Many continue to live comfortable, useful lives for years with the right care in place. But it does require a shift in how that horse is managed. It becomes less about routine maintenance and more about paying attention to the details, watching for changes, and working closely with a veterinarian and farrier to stay ahead of potential problems.

In most cases, the first signs are easy to overlook. A coat that lingers. A body that changes. Feet that don’t quite stay right. But those small details tend to matter more than people think. Recognizing them early, and acting on them, is what allows a manageable condition to stay that way.