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Mexican Bush Sage

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A Favorite for Butterflies and Hummingbirds

By Norman Winter | Horticulturist, Author and Speaker

The Mexican bush sage has been blooming for a few weeks now, and like clockwork, it’s proving to be a favorite nectar source for Monarch butterflies heading south. It’s always fascinated me that, with so many other nectar flowers available in the fall, there’s something they especially like about this salvia.

Known botanically as Salvia leucantha, the Mexican bush sage is native to Mexico and Central America. It’s one of those plants I can’t imagine not having in my garden. A short-day (or long-night) bloomer, it starts flowering in late summer and keeps going through several frosts. The fuzzy, velvety purple spikes with white or purple flowers are produced in abundance. For cut-flower enthusiasts, this plant can easily yield a hundred stems for the vase. Even when not in bloom, its gray-green foliage adds interest to the garden.

As I mentioned, it’s a favorite for butterflies – especially Monarchs – but it’s also a regular feeding stop for hummingbirds. They’re drawn to the white blooms emerging from the velvety purple calyces. The ideal growing location is full sun, though the plant can tolerate a bit of afternoon shade. The soil must be very well-drained, so consider planting in raised beds or amending heavy soils with compost or humus. In fact, well-drained soil may be the key to encouraging a surprising spring return in regions farther north than expected.

When preparing your soil, incorporate 2 pounds of a slow-release 12-6-6 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed space. Space the plants 24 to 36 inches apart, and plant them at the same depth they were growing in their containers. Avoid planting near streetlights or floodlights, as this salvia blooms in response to the number of dark hours.

Provide supplemental water during prolonged dry periods. After the first hard frost in the fall, cut the plants back to ground level and add a layer of mulch for winter protection. Feed again in the spring when you see new growth emerging, and continue feeding every six to eight weeks through September. For even more blooms in the fall, lightly prune once or twice in late April and early June. You can also harvest stems and tie them with sprigs of rosemary to hang in the kitchen – an aromatic and beautiful touch.

Mexican bush sage is mostly sold generically, but there are some standout selections worth noting: Midnight (with dark purple flowers), Kathiann Brown (a dwarf with lavender blooms), and the similar Santa Barbara (also a compact lavender variety). The standard form of Mexican bush sage typically reaches about 4 feet tall, while the compact varieties stay under 3 feet.

For companion planting, consider pairing with classic fall-blooming yellow mums – they’re an obvious but perfect match. In the herb garden, Mexican bush sage pairs well with rosemary, garlic chives, and lavender. The fall-blooming forsythia sage (Salvia madrensis), with its massive yellow flower spikes, also makes an incredible companion. Other great partners include yellow marigolds and golden lantana.

Mexican bush sage is perennial in USDA zones 8 and sometimes in zone 7, especially with perfect drainage and a protective layer of mulch. Even in cooler climates, it’s worth growing as an annual if you have a long enough season – just know it won’t bloom until August. In places like St. Louis, it typically blooms from mid-August through frost. It’s also one of the easiest plants to root from cuttings or propagate by division.

Spiky flowers always bring energy and visual interest to a garden, and Mexican bush sage is one of the best – providing nectar for pollinators, beauty in the landscape, and cut flowers by the dozen. At this time of year, it’s practically without equal. I hope you’ll give it a try.

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Cutlines

The Mexican bush sage is the perfect complement to fall planted marigolds, sometimes called Marimums.

This Ruby-throated hummingbird finds the Mexican bush sage to be just perfect.

The Golden Thyrallis is becoming popular in Texas and makes an ideal companion for the Mexican Bush sage.

The Mexican bush sage also dazzles in fall mixed containers.

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Leave the Mess: Why Wildlife Needs Dead Plants

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By Ann Asher

For years, fall garden advice read like a cleanup list: cut everything down, rake every leaf, haul off the stems and leave the beds tidy for winter. A neater yard may please people, but it can remove exactly what birds and beneficial insects need.

Standing seed heads are winter food. Coneflowers, sunflowers, native grasses and other plants hold seeds that finches, sparrows, quail and other birds can eat long after flowering ends. Hollow or pithy stems can also give native bees and other insects places to spend the winter.

Native bees are one of the strongest arguments for waiting. Many species don’t live in hives. Solitary stem-nesting bees use hollow or pithy stems, while ground-nesting bees depend on undisturbed soil. Cutting every stalk to the ground and hauling it away can remove next year’s pollinators before spring arrives.

Leaf litter matters just as much. Under a layer of leaves are insect eggs, pupae, spiders and other invertebrates that become food for birds. Some butterflies and moths spend part of winter tucked into leaf litter or attached to dead vegetation. Toads and other small animals also use the insulating layer.

Birds use dead vegetation for more than seed. Dense stems break the wind and provide cover from predators. A yard with several layers of vegetation offers far more options than a flat lawn bordered by bare mulch.

Dead wood has value, too. A standing dead tree, or snag, can provide nesting and feeding habitat for woodpeckers and other cavity users. Have a qualified professional remove or reduce any hazardous tree near houses, roads, fences or utility lines, though.

Clean up selectively

None of this means you should abandon your yard until spring. Still remove diseased plant material. Vegetable gardens often benefit from a cleanup that reduces pest and disease carryover. And don’t let thick mats of leaves smother turfgrass. Aim for selective cleanup rather than stripping every bed bare.

One approach is to move leaves off the lawn and into flower beds, around shrubs or into a compost pile. Leave healthy perennial stems standing through winter, especially in less formal areas. Brush piles can provide additional cover if local fire and property rules allow them.

If you worry a less tidy garden will look neglected, design can help. Keep paths and lawn edges crisp while letting the interior of beds stand. Move leaves into defined planting areas instead of leaving them across sidewalks and turf. Habitat doesn’t require making the whole property look abandoned.

You can also clean in stages. Remove diseased vegetables and obvious problem material in fall, leave ornamental and native stems through winter, then do the big cutback after several warm spring days, once insects have had a chance to emerge. Cutting hollow stems too early can destroy insects still developing inside. If you want a tidy look sooner, cut the stems and stack them loosely in an out-of-the-way spot for a few more weeks.

A wildlife-friendly yard in winter won’t look like a July garden. Seed heads turn brown. Leaves collect under shrubs. Stems stay standing. What looks dead to us is often still in use, and a landscape can keep working after the flowers are gone.

This fall, the easiest habitat project may be the one you don’t finish.

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What Happens to Snakes in the Cold?

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By OKFR Staff

The first cold front slows Oklahoma’s snakes down, but it doesn’t make them disappear.

Snakes are ectothermic, meaning their body temperature depends heavily on their surroundings. They can’t generate and regulate body heat the way mammals and birds do. As temperatures fall, digestion, movement and other body processes slow.

In winter, snakes enter a dormant state called brumation. It resembles hibernation, but reptiles may become active during warm spells. They look for protected places where temperatures stay more stable, including deep rock crevices, burrows, old foundations, caves and spaces below the frost line.

Some species gather at communal winter sites. A den with the right depth, moisture and temperature may be used for generations.

Snakes don’t spend the winter in one continuous sleep. A mild January afternoon can bring one to a den entrance to bask before it retreats again.

That explains why a warm fall day after a cold snap can still produce a snake encounter. A south-facing rock pile, barn foundation or sunny trail may warm up enough for a snake to move even after cold nights.

Different species choose different winter shelters. Rattlesnakes may use rocky dens below the frost line. Rat snakes can shelter in hollow trees, old wells or building foundations. Smaller species may disappear into mammal burrows or deep soil cracks. They all need protection from temperatures that would leave them unable to function.

Brumating snakes are sluggish, so disturbing a winter den can be dangerous for the snakes and is unnecessary for people. Leave a cluster of snakes in a natural rock outcrop alone. If snakes are getting into an occupied building, handle it with exclusion work, sealing entry points and removing attractants, rather than by handling the animals.

You can reduce unwanted encounters around buildings by sealing gaps, controlling rodents and keeping debris piles away from the house. Firewood stacked against a wall provides both cover and prey habitat. Out in the open, though, snakes are an important part of the ecosystem, and many species help control rodents.

If you come across a snake, keep your distance. Don’t try to handle or kill a snake you can’t confidently identify. Oklahoma has both venomous and nonvenomous species, and bites are most likely during close contact.

Young-of-year snakes may still be active in fall. A small snake isn’t automatically harmless, and size alone is a poor way to identify one. Give any unknown snake room, and take photographs from a safe distance if you need an identification.

Homeowners sometimes find wintering snakes only after moving firewood, opening a crawl space or cleaning out an old shed. Wear gloves and boots and carry a flashlight when working in protected spots where rodents and snakes may shelter. If you find a venomous snake in or right around a building, call a qualified wildlife professional instead of trying to remove it with improvised tools.

By spring, warming soil and longer days bring snakes back to regular activity. They may use the same den or refuge year after year, so the best fix for a recurring problem near a house is exclusion and habitat changes made when you can safely work the site.

Cold weather changes snake activity, but it doesn’t flip an off switch. Until sustained winter weather arrives, a warm patch of sun can still put a snake right where you didn’t expect one.

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Are Acorns Really a Predictor of the Winter to Come?

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By Ann Asher

A yard full of acorns always seems to bring the same prediction: “We’re going to have a hard winter.” Oaks, unfortunately, don’t have access to a seasonal forecast.

Heavy acorn years are called mast years. Oaks can produce enormous crops in some years and very few in others. Species, tree health, pollination, weather during flowering and fruit development, and broader biological cycles scientists are still studying all influence the pattern.

The trouble with the winter-weather theory is timing. Acorns start developing months before winter arrives. A tree can’t know a February ice storm is coming and deliberately make extra acorns in response.

Weather does influence the crop, just not as a forecast. A late freeze can damage oak flowers and reduce production. Drought can stress trees. Good growing conditions can support development. Different oak groups also mature acorns on different schedules, so the crop under one tree may not match the crop under another.

Members of the white oak group generally mature acorns in one growing season, while many red oak species take two seasons from pollination to mature acorn. That means the weather that shaped this year’s crop may have hit at different stages depending on the oak.

One reason the myth feels convincing is that people remember the hits. A huge acorn crop followed by a memorable ice storm becomes a story. A huge crop followed by an ordinary winter is quickly forgotten. That is classic confirmation bias, and weather folklore is full of it.

What mast years do

Mast years do have real effects. Deer, squirrels, turkeys and other wildlife take advantage of abundant nuts. When acorns are plentiful, deer may spend less time at feeders or food plots because high-energy food is already scattered under the trees. Rodent populations can also respond to abundant mast.

Scientists study mast years for a better reason than forecasting weather. Large, synchronized seed crops can overwhelm seed predators, so more acorns survive and germinate. Mast also ripples through wildlife populations by providing a temporary burst of high-energy food.

For livestock producers, a bumper crop can be less charming. Cattle eating large amounts of acorns can develop oak toxicity, particularly when forage is scarce and animals eat acorns heavily.

In North Texas, the most useful thing a landowner can do with a heavy acorn crop is watch who is eating it. Deer may shift toward oak bottoms. Hogs can concentrate where mast is abundant. Cattle may start eating acorns if grass is short. Those are immediate management clues, unlike a guess about January temperatures.

Weather forecasting has improved because meteorologists measure the atmosphere and oceans, not because anyone found a better acorn. So enjoy the old saying, but don’t reorganize your winter feed budget around it. A ground covered in acorns tells you quite a bit about the oaks’ recent growing season and much less about weather that is still months away. The oak crop can stay where it belongs: in ecology, wildlife food and an enjoyable piece of fall folklore.

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