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Farm & Ranch

Raising Chicks

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By Landon Moore

If you keep or are interested in keeping poultry, you will have the desire to raise young birds at some point. If you order chicks, or decide to incubate and hatch eggs, it will be necessary to learn how to brood the resulting hatchlings. While this will vary in specifics between species, the basic rules remain the same. In this article, the word “chicks” will be used, but the general information following also applies to goslings, ducklings, keets, poults, etc.

Brooding poultry is caring for the chicks during the period when they are growing their first feathers. Chicks hatch with a thin coat of down that leaves them susceptible to chilling. The mother keeps them warm by continuing to sit on the young for the first weeks after hatching. If you plan to hatch your own flock’s eggs you may wonder why you should bother to do it artificially, especially if you have broody birds. The answer is that modern incubators are much more likely to result in live chicks, can incubate far more eggs and keep the extremely vulnerable hatchlings safe as they emerge, especially from ants. Of course if you are purchasing chicks, brooding is your only option.

Before your eggs hatch or the chicks arrive, you will want to have the brooder set up, and ready to go. The first issue to decide is location. You will want a covered and secured place to set up the brooder. Be sure it has plenty of air flow; as anyone who has spent any time with birds can attest, fowl of any age produce an unpleasant smell without adequate ventilation. A barn or other outbuilding could work, but be sure it is well secured. A cat, raccoon or other predator could easily kill your chicks if they get the opportunity. A garage is a great option, offering protection and close access to water and electricity. If it lacks windows you will need to open the garage door a few times per day for ventilation. Inside the house is another option (such as in a disused bathroom) especially for very small poultry. This may seem ideal, offering complete protection, easy temperature regulation, water and electrify, but there are drawbacks. Aside from smell, chicks are unbelievably messy and will require extensive and daily cleaning if the room is to remain in even slightly good condition.

The next choice is what the brooder box will be. You can purchase large metal brooders built for hundreds of chicks or expensive tiered systems on rollers. However the best option is usually a plain, heavy-duty plastic storage box. Cheap, easy to move, simple to clean and sanitize, these are the most versatile and efficient option.

The chicks will require (in addition to shelter) heat, bedding, feed and water. The heat will come in the form of a small heat lamp or even a very strong and hot light bulb suspended above one end of the brooder box. Be sure it is securely prevented from falling into bedding or you could end up with a fire. You can make a metal screen to place over the box which protects them from predators in addition to falling lamps. Place a thermometer at the surface of the bedding before adding the chicks and adjust the heat lamp until the thermometer measures 95 degrees. You will reduce this by 5 degrees each week until their feathers have grown out. Even if the weather reaches or exceeds this temperature a lamp will be needed at night.

You may be intimidated by charts showing the exact temperature requirements of various poultry species and wonder how you can possibly keep the heat exactly right during daily temperature shifts. You do not need to be overly worried about this. Why? Because the chicks will tell you if they are comfortable through their behavior. After placing them in the brooder simply watch them for a few minutes. Do they crowd underneath the heat, piling on each other to conserve heat? Lower the bulb a bit. Are they straining against the opposite wall and cheeping in stress? Move it further away. Are they fairly evenly spread out, some exploring their new environment and some sleeping under the heat? Perfect. This is why the heat should be placed over one end of the brooder. If it is over the entire box you will have no way of knowing if your chicks are over-warmed.

The next issue is bedding. When the chicks are first placed in the brooder the bedding should be a layer of paper towels or (non-slick) newspaper. This even surface provides good traction for the birds preventing splayed legs and also prevents them from getting stuck somewhere and dying or else ingesting bedding before they learn what feed is and dying. It is always good to keep in mind that chicks of all kinds are morbid little things that will jump at the first opportunity for death in their initial couple weeks of life. It is up to you to deny them the opportunity until their self-preservation instinct kicks in. Chicks mature shockingly fast and in just a couple of days the bedding may be exchanged for pine shavings. You may still want a layer of paper at the bottom to make cleaning easier. You do not want to disturb the chicks without necessity, so you can add a fresh layer of shavings a couple of times as needed before you completely clean the box.

Commercial chick feed is available that is meant to be suitable for all species. For game birds, guineas and turkeys it’s often better to just use an adult gamebird crumble feed as their protein requirements are extremely high. For waterfowl, be sure the feed has enough niacin if it isn’t specifically formulated for them. If it does not have enough, you can sprinkle some brewer’s yeast over the top. Medicated feed is usually formulated for chicks specifically and may not be safe for other species (especially for waterfowl), so be sure to check before feeding. Chicks aren’t especially bright and may not be able to figure out how to operate the feeder at first. You can help them by placing a small pile of their feed on a paper plate (or paper towel for quail) where they can see it more easily.

For waterers, their basically two main types; open waterers and bottles. The bottles can be complicated with multiple pieces and nipples to drink from or simply a two piece plastic quart jar and base that screw together. The open waterers will usually be a miniature trough with a hinged or sliding lid that allows the chicks to stick their heads in without falling into the waterer and drowning. Generally the bottle type waterers will stay cleaner and hold more, but for waterfowl open waterers are preferred so they may submerge their bills for cleaning. Quail should be given bottles with special quail bases which are very small to prevent drowning. It can be extremely beneficial to dissolve a couple tablespoons of sugar (or commercially-made chick electrolytes) into the water for the first few days, especially if the chicks came by mail. Provide chicks with warm water the first few days (use your inner wrist to determine a suitable temperature, as you would milk for a bottle) to prevent chilling them. Be sure to carefully dunk each chick’s beak into the water when they are placed in the brooder so they learn what it is.

Chicks are most fragile for the first three days and should be handled as little as possible. When shipped, they will arrive stressed and possible chilled and care during this period is the most crucial. For the first three days after hatching, chicks are still absorbing their egg yolk and will not require outside nutrition and therefore may eat sparingly. It is best practice to sanitize the feeders and waterers regularly, but be aware that all birds will leave manure in their water. Don’t let the water remain filthy, but don’t expect it to remain sterile, either. Likewise, a stinking bog will not yield thriving poultry, but it is unnecessary to fanatically clean the brooder constantly. When the chicks are fully feathered will vary by species (three weeks for quail, six weeks for chickens), but once this happens it will be time for your young feathered friends to graduate to their new pens.

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Farm & Ranch

Frog Fruit

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By Tony Dean, tonydean.tx1@gmail.com

Frog fruit is a native, low-growing perennial forb adapted to most of the eastern U.S., but few grazers know it well. It contributes more to our plant communities than we realize. It generally grows no more than a few inches tall and roots at the nodes. It can form dense mats several feet across and develop runners up to 3 feet long.

The leaves are thick, one to two inches long and 3/8 inch wide, and toothed from the middle to the tip. Tiny white flowers form a ring around a flower head, and the head then elongates into a cylinder an inch long or longer. Frog fruit has a four-angled stem.

Frog fruit can grow almost anywhere in Texas and on many soil types. It can grow in drier soils and likes good drainage, but it needs additional moisture to survive the hottest months. You can find it almost anywhere in a pasture, though it often grows in depressions and near water sources.

“Frog fruit is used as forage by livestock and deer. I recall an instance when I was moving cattle from one pasture to the next on a Jack County ranch. As I opened the gate, I stood by a beautiful green plant of switchgrass which I expected to be immediately grazed down. The cattle walked right by the switchgrass and stuck their heads in a small patch of frog fruit a few feet away,” Dean said.

Frog fruit is gaining popularity as a ground cover for homes and gardens for these reasons:

  1. Frog fruit grows quickly, maybe too quickly. If it gets out of bounds, you can always trim it back.
  2. Frog fruit is low maintenance. Once you get it established with adequate watering, it can survive with little care.
  3. Frog fruit has a long bloom period, from April to October.
  4. It is a host plant for several butterfly species and other insects.
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Farm & Ranch

Theileria orientalis

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By Barry Whitworth, DVM

Over the past few years, veterinarians have detected Theileria orientalis in Oklahoma cattle. Early cases were primarily diagnosed in adult cattle, but more recent Oklahoma cases have been identified in stocker cattle. All cattle producers should be familiar with the clinical signs of this disease and check their cattle daily for signs of trouble.

The first U.S. case of theileriosis was identified in Virginia in August 2017. Those cattle showed weakness and anemia, and veterinarians made an initial diagnosis of anaplasmosis. Blood samples from the animals were tested for Anaplasma, Babesia and Leptospira. Results were negative for all three, but the tests revealed a blood protozoan, later identified as T. orientalis genotype Ikeda. Since that first herd outbreak, the organism has been detected in several states.

Cattle sick with T. orientalis genotype Ikeda may show fever, weakness, anorexia and exercise intolerance. If forced to move, affected cattle may stagger and gasp for air. If stressed excessively, they may collapse and die. On examination, the gums, eyes or vaginal mucosa may appear pale (white) or yellow. Reproductive losses, including stillbirths and late-term abortions, may occur, along with a drop in milk production.

Clinical signs reported in adult cattle in Oklahoma include anemia, sudden death, weight loss, abortion, failure to thrive and failure to calve. In stocker cattle, producers have reported weight loss, anemia, poor performance and sudden death.

Because Anaplasma marginale and T. orientalis genotype Ikeda produce similar clinical signs, telling the two apart can be difficult. One difference is that clinical signs are more common in young cattle infected with T. orientalis than in young cattle infected with A. marginale. Cattle with anaplasmosis also often display aggression, while those with T. orientalis genotype Ikeda typically do not. A laboratory test is required to tell the two diseases apart with certainty.

Researchers have identified Haemaphysalis longicornis as a possible vector of T. orientalis genotype Ikeda. In 2017, the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) National Veterinary Services Laboratories (NVSL) confirmed the presence of H. longicornis, commonly called the Asian longhorned tick (ALT) or bush tick. While trying to determine how the tick arrived in the United States, USDA officials discovered it had been present in West Virginia as early as 2010. The tick has now been confirmed in at least 26 states, including Oklahoma. Some evidence suggests other insect vectors may also transmit T. orientalis genotype Ikeda. Needle transfer is another possible route of transmission.

The ALT has been identified in Craig and Mayes counties in Oklahoma. This tick thrives in areas with high humidity, such as wooded regions, brush or tall grass. Ticks are often found where large numbers of wildlife gather, such as along deer trails. Producers can find more information about the ALT on the USDA website at https://www.aphis.usda.gov/livestock-poultry-disease/cattle/ticks/asian-longhorned.

Other countries have developed treatments for T. orientalis, but no approved treatments are available in the United States, and no vaccine exists for this disease. The best defense is prevention: buying cattle free of the organism, avoiding blood transfer between animals and using effective tick control. Producers should purchase cattle from reputable sources. Clean instruments between animals during procedures such as castration or dehorning, and change needles between every animal. Control external parasites with appropriate insecticide treatments. Pasture management also helps, such as rotating cattle away from wooded or brushy areas where ticks thrive. Patch burning may also help reduce tick populations.

Theileria orientalis remains a concern for some cow/calf and stocker producers in Oklahoma. Producers who want more information about T. orientalis genotype Ikeda should contact their local veterinarian or Oklahoma State University County Extension agriculture educator.

References

Hammer, J. F., Emery, D., Bogema, D. R., & Jenkins, C. (2015). Detection of Theileria orientalis genotypes in Haemaphysalis longicornis ticks from southern Australia. Parasites & Vectors, 8, 229.

Oakes, V. J., Yabsley, M. J., Schwartz, D., LeRoith, T., Bissett, C., Broaddus, C., Schlater, J. L., Todd, S. M., Boes, K. M., Brookhart, M., & Lahmers, K. K. (2019). Theileria orientalis Ikeda genotype in cattle, Virginia, USA. Emerging Infectious Diseases, 25(9), 1653-1659.

Spickler, Anna Rovid. (2019). Theileriosis. Retrieved from http://www.cfsph.iastate.edu/DiseaseInfo/factsheets.php.

Watts, J. G., Playford, M. C., & Hickey, K. L. (2016). Theileria orientalis: A review. New Zealand Veterinary Journal, 64(1), 3-9.

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Farm & Ranch

Is the Pond Safe for Livestock?

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By OKFR Staff

During the hottest part of summer, a farm pond can look like a welcome source of water. Cattle may be standing belly-deep along the bank, and the pond may still hold enough water to seem dependable. Looks alone won’t tell you whether that water is safe.

Hot weather, limited rainfall and falling pond levels can create water-quality problems. As water evaporates, salts, minerals, nutrients and other substances become more concentrated. Warm, still water can also encourage blue-green algae, and some forms can produce toxins capable of killing livestock.

Producers sometimes treat water as an afterthought compared to grass, hay and supplemental feed. Livestock need a dependable supply of clean water to maintain feed intake, regulate body temperature and support production. Poor-quality water can reduce consumption and performance even when it does not cause obvious poisoning.

A pond that has watered cattle for years is not safe under every set of conditions. Pay particular attention during drought, extreme heat or any period when the water level drops significantly.

Watch the Water and the Livestock

One of the most serious late-summer concerns is a bloom of cyanobacteria, commonly called blue-green algae. These organisms live naturally in many bodies of water, and most do not produce dangerous toxins. The risk rises when certain toxin-producing species multiply rapidly under favorable conditions.

According to Oklahoma State University Extension, toxic blue-green algal blooms typically develop in standing water after periods of hot, dry, calm weather. Nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus can fuel excessive growth. Those nutrients may reach a pond through manure, fertilizer runoff, soil erosion and decaying vegetation.

A suspicious bloom may turn the water bright green, blue-green, pea-soup green or even brownish. Scum, foam or mats may collect along the shoreline, particularly where the wind pushes floating material into one area. Some blooms look like spilled paint.

Not every green pond is poisonous. Common aquatic plants and harmless algae can also change the color or surface of the water. You usually cannot tell whether a bloom is toxic by looking at it, and a pond can contain toxin-producing cyanobacteria without showing every commonly described warning sign.

Keep livestock, horses, pets and people away from water that has an unusual color, heavy surface scum, a bad odor or unexplained dead fish or wildlife nearby. Do not let livestock drink from another part of the same pond on the assumption that the water is safe there. Wind can move a bloom, and toxin levels may vary across the pond.

Blue-green algae can produce toxins that affect the nervous system or liver. Depending on the toxin and the amount consumed, affected animals may develop weakness, staggering, difficulty breathing, tremors, convulsions, diarrhea or collapse. In severe cases, owners find animals dead near the water before realizing anything is wrong. Treatment often fails, which makes prevention especially important.

Treat any suspected poisoning as an emergency. Move the herd away from the water source without driving or stressing animals that may already be affected. Provide another clean water supply and contact a veterinarian immediately. Your county Extension office can also help you determine where and how to submit a water sample.

Blue-green algae is not the only potential problem. Pond water may contain elevated levels of dissolved salts, sulfates, nitrates, bacteria or other contaminants. Runoff can carry manure, fertilizer, pesticides and organic matter into the pond. Low water levels make some of these problems worse because the remaining water grows more concentrated.

Water with excessive dissolved solids may taste bitter or salty, so animals drink less of it. Depending on the substances involved and their concentrations, poor-quality water may contribute to diarrhea, reduced feed intake, poor weight gain or other health concerns. Young animals and livestock that are not used to the water may be more vulnerable.

Watch the cattle themselves, too. Are they reluctant to drink? Are they crowding around a different water source? Has feed intake or weight gain dropped without an obvious explanation? Are several animals having digestive problems? Changes across multiple animals can be an early clue that you need to look at the feed or water.

OSU Extension recommends collecting a representative sample and submitting it for a livestock water test whenever you suspect a water supply is harming animal health or performance. A standard livestock water test covers several characteristics, but blue-green algae can require different sampling and testing procedures. Contact the laboratory or county Extension office before collecting the sample so you take it from the right location, use the proper container and handle it correctly.

Reduce Problems Before They Develop

Good pond management cannot eliminate every water-quality problem, but it can lower the risk. One of the most effective steps is limiting the manure, soil and nutrients that enter the water.

Cattle with unrestricted access to an entire pond can damage the banks, muddy the water and deposit large amounts of manure in or near it. Hoof traffic strips vegetation and speeds erosion. Sediment fills the pond over time, while manure supplies nutrients that can encourage excessive algae growth.

Where practical, fence livestock away from most of the pond and provide a limited-access watering point. Another option is piping water to a trough below the dam or elsewhere in the pasture. OSU notes that reducing cattle manure in the pond can reduce the conditions that favor toxic algae and make the water more palatable.

A vegetated buffer around the pond can slow runoff and trap soil and nutrients before they reach the water. Apply fertilizer and manure carefully in the watershed, particularly before heavy rain, and do not let large amounts of hay, feed or organic debris pile up at the water’s edge.

Alternative watering systems need maintenance, too. Check troughs for algae, manure, drowned animals and other contamination. Install wildlife escape ramps in tanks so birds and small animals can climb out instead of drowning and fouling the water.

Be cautious about treating a pond on your own. Some owners use copper sulfate and other algaecides for algae control, but improper treatment can create new problems. Killing a large amount of algae or aquatic vegetation at once can deplete dissolved oxygen as the material decomposes, which can lead to a fish kill. Treatment may also release toxins from affected cyanobacteria into the water. Base any chemical application on proper identification and professional recommendations, not guesswork.

Livestock should always have enough water for the weather, their size and their stage of production. Demand rises sharply in hot weather, and a pond that barely meets the herd’s needs in spring may fall short in August. Check the source regularly instead of waiting for cattle to gather around a muddy shoreline.

Ponds can fool you. Crystal-clear water isn’t always safe, and a green pond doesn’t always mean toxic algae. Regular observation, testing and prevention are the best ways to keep a pond safe for your herd.

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